Tuesday, March 04, 2008

Luang Prabang, Laos

I arrived in Luang Prabang early this evening. On first look it appears to be very lovely, quite sophisticated in a way i was not expecting. The night bizarre's are much more colourful and organised than in Thailand with beautiful handicrafts, and the people seem very friendly. This i am grateful for because so far in terms of people friendliness the Laotians were letting the South East Asia team down.
The slow boat was amazing in terms of scenery, unmatched probably than anywhere else i have ever been in the world. Absolutely gorgeous and untouched by the western world. The first day we punted along for about 7 hours and i did not read one word of my book or listen to a single song on my ipod as i couldn't stop looking at the scenery. Fishermen, women washing, children swimming, rock formations, waterfalls... Occasionally my daydream was rudely interrupted by a loud speed boat loaded with the fools that took the fast boat. Wearing crashing helmets and racing along at dangerous speed it looked stupid and a complete waste of being in Laos, very few people do it and i see why. I was still with Tasha and Frankie the Spanish hairdresser (Peter the dutch cyclist went a different route) and on the boat met a variety of people from Argentina, Australia, Canada and Germany, all really pleasant and laid back. The benches were not the most comfortable and i admit i wish i was one of the people that bought a cushion.
We stopped half way down the river after 7 hours for the night and this is where things got slightly stressful. We were charged by a bunch of kids who jumped on and took our bags, demanding money to get them back./ As you can imagine, this did not wash with me. It was then a break for it to find a bed for the night where many Laotian guest house owners lied about the facilities and tried to bump the price, along with being rude. All quite stressful and the place was a dump, a lot like a border town in Mexico. So bad i have forgotten the name of the town already. A complete disappointment. Still we soon calmed down with a beer and some Laotian curries.
This morning we started over again and this time a stressful start , they tried to put too many people on the boats. They should only hold 80 people and more than 100 were on board and they still tried to fit more people on so we had a mexican stand off and demanded another boat. People fell in the river, bags were thrown....quite the scene.
Eventually, we were on the move and it was much of the same as the day before but different people. Really, really amazing and i would do the trip 10 times over again. This time i sat with a couple of great girls from Brighton, Jenna and Stephanie and a bunch of easy on the eye lads from Argentina.
Now i am in Luang Prabang and after a delicious Lao streetside buffet and a glass of wine (WINE !!), Laos is starting to redeem itself. I look forward to seeing tomorrow why LP was recently named a World Heritage site.
That's after we check out the line dancing at the local disco..i kid you not!

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