I'm now sitting in Little Rock airport bored senseless due to a 3 hour delay. I was supposed to be back in NYC around 5pm this afternoon but now i'll be lucky to be home before 10pm. Ouch.
I am slightly sad to be leaving Little Rock, it has felt more like a vacation than a business trip. Not too sad as i have scheduled to come back in a month when i here it will be at it's most prettiest with wild flowers and trees fully flush with blossom.
The clients have been wonderful and so grateful for my help, i only wish all my clients could be the same. They've done a great job of showing me Little Rock and in helping me pile on the not needed pounds.
Last night i was treated to a meal at The Flying Fish in Little Rock which was amazing. I had a whole pound of hot boiled succulent shrimp with corn and a new potato paired with a gigantic frozen margarita that a true mexican wouldn't touch with a barge pole.
I should of had the catfish but i am truly done with fried food for a while and the shrimp looked so good. The atmosphere of the place was great although ordering was slightly daunting as they had a huge wall of different fish and combinations. I am not the most decisiive when it comes to picking food as i want it all so it was slightly painful. Otherwise it was just picnic tables and fishing paraphenalia. My personal favorite was a wall full of framed fishing pictures of customers, i wanted that wall for my apt.
It all ended sour though as the paprika that covered the shrimp got into my left eye and then because of my fluffing, the right eye. So i staggered out of there completely blind due to my eyes streaming and nearly got hit by oncoming traffic.
Well, my flight is apparently about to board so goodbye Little Rock. Until next time.
Friday, March 28, 2008
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
Little Rock, Arkansas
I arrived yesterday after a 9 hour trek from NYC via Cincinnatti. We were stuck at the gate at JFK for an hour while they towed an Air China airbus that was blocking our path out of the way. The winds then changed direction so after taking 20 minutes to reach the runway in one direction, we had to turn around and go back in the other. All in all we were about 2 hours delayed and even the pilot could not hide the embarrassment in his voice.
It was worth it when i embarked at Cincinatti airport though because the first thing i spotted was someone carrying a Chick-Fil-A cup. Chick-Fil-A is the king of all junk foods in my book and the idea of getting a healthy salad and a glass of wine was soon replaced with a Classic Chicken Sandwich, Waffle Fries, 8 nuggets with that delicious Polynesian sauce and a full.fat.coke. Why oh why do we not have this mecca to chicken in NYC?
I'm actually going to put on about 10 pounds in this trip with all the eating i'm doing. After a huge breakfast (Something i rarely have) the clients took me to an award winning, "world champion' bbq house called The Whole Hog Cafe.
I had meat sweats lasting the rest of the day and thought i might die from a meat enduced heart attack.
Tonight is deep fried Catfish. It's a Little Rock specialty and i don't want to disappoint my clients who take great pride in their state and the catfish it deep fries. When will i learn?
I Heart Little Rock. I don't know why but i like all these southern/mid western cities that line the Mississippi. So much space, huge industrial office spaces and wide open streets lined with vacant lots and houses with wrap around porches. They are almost desolate when you comapre them to cities like New York yet you can always find something of interest. For me it's the William J. Clinton Presidential Library (which was very cool) and the food. I'd really like to spend some time here around the national parks, Arkansas has a serious amount of national parks and hiking trails. I have to come back next month so am thinking of scheduling a little R&R on the back of it.
I'm going for a quick run now so i can fit in some biscuits and gravy with my catfish. I am a glutton for punishment i know.
It was worth it when i embarked at Cincinatti airport though because the first thing i spotted was someone carrying a Chick-Fil-A cup. Chick-Fil-A is the king of all junk foods in my book and the idea of getting a healthy salad and a glass of wine was soon replaced with a Classic Chicken Sandwich, Waffle Fries, 8 nuggets with that delicious Polynesian sauce and a full.fat.coke. Why oh why do we not have this mecca to chicken in NYC?
I'm actually going to put on about 10 pounds in this trip with all the eating i'm doing. After a huge breakfast (Something i rarely have) the clients took me to an award winning, "world champion' bbq house called The Whole Hog Cafe.
I had meat sweats lasting the rest of the day and thought i might die from a meat enduced heart attack.
Tonight is deep fried Catfish. It's a Little Rock specialty and i don't want to disappoint my clients who take great pride in their state and the catfish it deep fries. When will i learn?
I Heart Little Rock. I don't know why but i like all these southern/mid western cities that line the Mississippi. So much space, huge industrial office spaces and wide open streets lined with vacant lots and houses with wrap around porches. They are almost desolate when you comapre them to cities like New York yet you can always find something of interest. For me it's the William J. Clinton Presidential Library (which was very cool) and the food. I'd really like to spend some time here around the national parks, Arkansas has a serious amount of national parks and hiking trails. I have to come back next month so am thinking of scheduling a little R&R on the back of it.
I'm going for a quick run now so i can fit in some biscuits and gravy with my catfish. I am a glutton for punishment i know.
Monday, March 10, 2008
Bangkok, Thailand
It's 9.15pm and i should be getting some sleep before my 3.30am wake up call. I am back at Reflections hotel and have a lovely Shitake Mushroom soup and duck with rice waiting for me back in my room..my last meal in Thailand.
It was sad to leave Laos but i was glad i made it in one piece. I had spent the whole time scaring people who were flying Laos airlines because they have a terrible safety record only to find that i had to fly them as Thai Airways back to Bangkok were sold out. The landing was sketchy but all in all it was a good flight.
Ventiane was great. I wish i could of spent more time there. It was very like some European cities but then it has been heavily influenced by French culture. It is a long weekend here so finding a hotel was horrendous, everywhere was booked out but i was saved by an Aussie knight on a motorcycle who carried me off to some plush place for $20 a night. We had dinner but then i was in bed asleep by 10pm being so tired from my kayak trip.
Today i got a tattoo. Not the best timing because i have to sit on my arse for 20 plus hours and that is where it is. I had a tattoo 12 years ago in Indonesia so decided to get it touched up and expanded while back in Asia...it hurts.
So, a quick shopping spree, stuffing my bag with fishermans pants (Lisa i have you covered!) and another Thai massage and now i'm off to bed.
It has been a fantastic trip, much of it i could not write up in here as both you and i will of been at the computer for hours. I shall miss the people i have met both Thais, Laotians and westerners. I will miss the food of both places along with the landscape much of which has been breathtaking. I won't miss the ridiculous money, the Kip especially which is 17,000 to a single pound (the dollar is doing terrible here). I won't misss the language because i find it frustrating and cannot speak a word. Thank you and Hello are even painful for me. I will both miss and be glad to see the back of the tuk-tuk and i won't be eating rice for a good few weeks. I also can't wait to get rid of this Eau De Mekong that has been lingering on my skin the last few days. Goodbye to organic pineapple shakes in the mornings, i will miss thee.
Saying all that i wish i was staying and could easily keep going for months as i'm quite good for this kind of life but reality beckons.
Currently Reading: Out of Africa
It was sad to leave Laos but i was glad i made it in one piece. I had spent the whole time scaring people who were flying Laos airlines because they have a terrible safety record only to find that i had to fly them as Thai Airways back to Bangkok were sold out. The landing was sketchy but all in all it was a good flight.
Ventiane was great. I wish i could of spent more time there. It was very like some European cities but then it has been heavily influenced by French culture. It is a long weekend here so finding a hotel was horrendous, everywhere was booked out but i was saved by an Aussie knight on a motorcycle who carried me off to some plush place for $20 a night. We had dinner but then i was in bed asleep by 10pm being so tired from my kayak trip.
Today i got a tattoo. Not the best timing because i have to sit on my arse for 20 plus hours and that is where it is. I had a tattoo 12 years ago in Indonesia so decided to get it touched up and expanded while back in Asia...it hurts.
So, a quick shopping spree, stuffing my bag with fishermans pants (Lisa i have you covered!) and another Thai massage and now i'm off to bed.
It has been a fantastic trip, much of it i could not write up in here as both you and i will of been at the computer for hours. I shall miss the people i have met both Thais, Laotians and westerners. I will miss the food of both places along with the landscape much of which has been breathtaking. I won't miss the ridiculous money, the Kip especially which is 17,000 to a single pound (the dollar is doing terrible here). I won't misss the language because i find it frustrating and cannot speak a word. Thank you and Hello are even painful for me. I will both miss and be glad to see the back of the tuk-tuk and i won't be eating rice for a good few weeks. I also can't wait to get rid of this Eau De Mekong that has been lingering on my skin the last few days. Goodbye to organic pineapple shakes in the mornings, i will miss thee.
Saying all that i wish i was staying and could easily keep going for months as i'm quite good for this kind of life but reality beckons.
Currently Reading: Out of Africa
Sunday, March 09, 2008
Vientiane, Laos
Today started off quite badly with the only hangover of the trip. Unfortunately it was a HUGE one and i had to Kayak 20 kilometers, jump off a cliff and climb over rocks (many of which i had to puke behind) all in 90 degree heat. It was painful. With no ginger ale or macdonalds in sight, i had to recover cold turkey with just a bottle of water and sticky rice.
Lesson learned: Do not take on the Laos in a drinking contest, they will always win. The owners of our guest house were celebrating National Womens Day with a picnic and crates and crates of Beer Lao. I had baby sat their kid while they ate yesterday so now they have adopted me and invited us to celebrate with them. They did not seem to care or understand that i don't drink beer and not wanting to be rude i didn't want to refuse it...or the Lao Whiskey shots..Brrrrr i feel sick even writing this. It was chaos. I have no idea how the evening went but i woke at 7am with all my clothes on, still drunk. Not funny or clever.
I am now in Vientiane partially recovered and just made the guiness book of records for people on a tuk-tuk. 27 people consisting of 23 Laos, 1 English, 2 Canadians and 1 German. We had someone playing the Melodia, a cat and the german guy carried a massive hearing device for capturing bird sounds (nerd alert!)...it almost sounds like a joke.
Lesson learned: Do not take on the Laos in a drinking contest, they will always win. The owners of our guest house were celebrating National Womens Day with a picnic and crates and crates of Beer Lao. I had baby sat their kid while they ate yesterday so now they have adopted me and invited us to celebrate with them. They did not seem to care or understand that i don't drink beer and not wanting to be rude i didn't want to refuse it...or the Lao Whiskey shots..Brrrrr i feel sick even writing this. It was chaos. I have no idea how the evening went but i woke at 7am with all my clothes on, still drunk. Not funny or clever.
I am now in Vientiane partially recovered and just made the guiness book of records for people on a tuk-tuk. 27 people consisting of 23 Laos, 1 English, 2 Canadians and 1 German. We had someone playing the Melodia, a cat and the german guy carried a massive hearing device for capturing bird sounds (nerd alert!)...it almost sounds like a joke.
Friday, March 07, 2008
Vang Vieng, Laos
I loved Luang Prabang and could of stayed at least a week. I spent my last day walking the rivers, going into more temples and eating eating Laos BBQ. Which is not quite Texas BBQ but tasty all the same. Basically it is a big pot on a wood fire and in the pot you throw chicken stock, veggies, chillis, eggs and garlic and above that is a level for you to grill the meat or fish. Delicious and very healthy, i shall try and get one in my backpack to replace my stolen BBQ in Brooklyn.
I jumped the 7pm bus out of LP and i must say that night buses here are dodgy.
Now he was either a bodyguard to protect us from bandits or he is still on the run from events in Vietnam and no idea the war was over, but the dude in the front seat had a full on semi-automatic machine gun. My fear was that it was the latter and he would have a flash back at any minute and shoot the lot of us. So i stayed awake the whole 7 hours.
So now i am in Vang Vieng 7 hours south. Why was i sad about leaving Luang Prabang for Vang Vieng? If LP is the arts and culture capital, VV is the capital of fun.
I had read about this place on the travel snob blogs and had turned my snobby nose up to it as i read about it being a back packer mecca. That it is, but when the whole area is built for adventure sports and exhessive drinking then you could hardly blame them for coming.
Danger = Tubing + $3 Vodka Buckets + zip lines and river swings.
Surrounded by stunning scenery, nestled between the hills on the banks of several rivers, VV is full of adventure sports like cycling, hiking, rock climbing, kayaking and the most popular, tubing. Yesterday we rented tubes and floated down the river and stopped at various bars on the banks along the way which sold alcoholic drinks like the delicious Mulberry Mojito. I then threw myself down a zip line, somersaulted and landed on my back from a great height, only to tube down to the next place and do the same again. and again. and again. How i did not puke, drown or break something i do not know. I am just glad i drew the line at eating the happy omelettes and magic shakes, especially when i lost my crowd and ended up tube in the pitch black with a bunch of drunken and amorous Swedes.
The parties went on until very late, with DJ's and bonfires. Lots of people very unafraid of touting the no marijuans laws along with the governments 11.00pm curfew. I abided both seeing no future in 6 years in the Lao version of the Bangkok Hilton.
So up early again this morning. I am going to cycle the area and meet up with the gang later. I have some photography to do.
Tomorrow i kayak to the countries capital Vientiene for my last night in Laos. I had planned on leaving Laos early for a 3 day spa in Krabi but Laos is really, really interesting as well as beautiful. Much of what i have learned i haven't written here as it is not a geography lesson but i can't wait to bore you to death when i get back.
Until then, more drunken tubing...YAY!
Currently listening to: Damian Marley - Welcome to Jamrock, M.I.A. - Arular, Manu Chao (All good choices when on a bus at night in the jungle with a machine gun holding dude)
Currently Reading: The Book of Illusions - Paul Auster
I jumped the 7pm bus out of LP and i must say that night buses here are dodgy.
Now he was either a bodyguard to protect us from bandits or he is still on the run from events in Vietnam and no idea the war was over, but the dude in the front seat had a full on semi-automatic machine gun. My fear was that it was the latter and he would have a flash back at any minute and shoot the lot of us. So i stayed awake the whole 7 hours.
So now i am in Vang Vieng 7 hours south. Why was i sad about leaving Luang Prabang for Vang Vieng? If LP is the arts and culture capital, VV is the capital of fun.
I had read about this place on the travel snob blogs and had turned my snobby nose up to it as i read about it being a back packer mecca. That it is, but when the whole area is built for adventure sports and exhessive drinking then you could hardly blame them for coming.
Danger = Tubing + $3 Vodka Buckets + zip lines and river swings.
Surrounded by stunning scenery, nestled between the hills on the banks of several rivers, VV is full of adventure sports like cycling, hiking, rock climbing, kayaking and the most popular, tubing. Yesterday we rented tubes and floated down the river and stopped at various bars on the banks along the way which sold alcoholic drinks like the delicious Mulberry Mojito. I then threw myself down a zip line, somersaulted and landed on my back from a great height, only to tube down to the next place and do the same again. and again. and again. How i did not puke, drown or break something i do not know. I am just glad i drew the line at eating the happy omelettes and magic shakes, especially when i lost my crowd and ended up tube in the pitch black with a bunch of drunken and amorous Swedes.
The parties went on until very late, with DJ's and bonfires. Lots of people very unafraid of touting the no marijuans laws along with the governments 11.00pm curfew. I abided both seeing no future in 6 years in the Lao version of the Bangkok Hilton.
So up early again this morning. I am going to cycle the area and meet up with the gang later. I have some photography to do.
Tomorrow i kayak to the countries capital Vientiene for my last night in Laos. I had planned on leaving Laos early for a 3 day spa in Krabi but Laos is really, really interesting as well as beautiful. Much of what i have learned i haven't written here as it is not a geography lesson but i can't wait to bore you to death when i get back.
Until then, more drunken tubing...YAY!
Currently listening to: Damian Marley - Welcome to Jamrock, M.I.A. - Arular, Manu Chao (All good choices when on a bus at night in the jungle with a machine gun holding dude)
Currently Reading: The Book of Illusions - Paul Auster
Wednesday, March 05, 2008
Luang Prabang, Laos
Everybody, every single body should experience a Laos night club once in their life. It was sort of a cabaret place, like The Love Boat but with the Venga Boys and Line Dancing. Being the only westerners there they took much pleasure in our painful dance moves as they flowed between routines and we threw shapes never quite seen before. Unfortunately they have a curfew here so all the lights came on at 11pm and it was all over. I could of line danced my way to the break of dawn.
Another great source of entertainment here in Laos is bowling. 2km out of town and a whole new world opened itself up. We made friends we the group next door to us and bowled ladyboy style for several hours. I came last. I think the lanes were wonky.
Yesterday i was quite productive and went to the The Grand Palace which is now a museum and saw a photography exhibition of the Floating Buddha which was pretty amazing. Luang Prabang really is a great cultural center and there are many great art and dance studios amongst the stunning temples. My plan was to visit most of these but en route to the next temple i was jumped upon by a couple of friends in a Tuk Tuk heading to some waterfalls an hour or so away. Everybody loves a waterfall so off i went and i'm glad i did.They were lovely and unlike all the others i have seen here, you could swim in them. There were jumping ropes and you could dive under the falls to caves at the back...the only con was that i was freezing.
We got back just in time to climb Phu Hu hill to the temple and watch the sunset because everybody loves a sunset. Then dinner which was a Laos fish curry...let's just say that Delhi belly is not only reserved for Delhi.
So, today i will get back to looking around LP and i also have a couple of spa treatments lined up. Yesterday i had a pedicure for $3, today a $10 body scrub so any tan i might have is about to be rubbed off. Tonight i get the bus to Vang Vieng...boo hoo!
Another great source of entertainment here in Laos is bowling. 2km out of town and a whole new world opened itself up. We made friends we the group next door to us and bowled ladyboy style for several hours. I came last. I think the lanes were wonky.
Yesterday i was quite productive and went to the The Grand Palace which is now a museum and saw a photography exhibition of the Floating Buddha which was pretty amazing. Luang Prabang really is a great cultural center and there are many great art and dance studios amongst the stunning temples. My plan was to visit most of these but en route to the next temple i was jumped upon by a couple of friends in a Tuk Tuk heading to some waterfalls an hour or so away. Everybody loves a waterfall so off i went and i'm glad i did.They were lovely and unlike all the others i have seen here, you could swim in them. There were jumping ropes and you could dive under the falls to caves at the back...the only con was that i was freezing.
We got back just in time to climb Phu Hu hill to the temple and watch the sunset because everybody loves a sunset. Then dinner which was a Laos fish curry...let's just say that Delhi belly is not only reserved for Delhi.
So, today i will get back to looking around LP and i also have a couple of spa treatments lined up. Yesterday i had a pedicure for $3, today a $10 body scrub so any tan i might have is about to be rubbed off. Tonight i get the bus to Vang Vieng...boo hoo!
Tuesday, March 04, 2008
Luang Prabang, Laos
I arrived in Luang Prabang early this evening. On first look it appears to be very lovely, quite sophisticated in a way i was not expecting. The night bizarre's are much more colourful and organised than in Thailand with beautiful handicrafts, and the people seem very friendly. This i am grateful for because so far in terms of people friendliness the Laotians were letting the South East Asia team down.
The slow boat was amazing in terms of scenery, unmatched probably than anywhere else i have ever been in the world. Absolutely gorgeous and untouched by the western world. The first day we punted along for about 7 hours and i did not read one word of my book or listen to a single song on my ipod as i couldn't stop looking at the scenery. Fishermen, women washing, children swimming, rock formations, waterfalls... Occasionally my daydream was rudely interrupted by a loud speed boat loaded with the fools that took the fast boat. Wearing crashing helmets and racing along at dangerous speed it looked stupid and a complete waste of being in Laos, very few people do it and i see why. I was still with Tasha and Frankie the Spanish hairdresser (Peter the dutch cyclist went a different route) and on the boat met a variety of people from Argentina, Australia, Canada and Germany, all really pleasant and laid back. The benches were not the most comfortable and i admit i wish i was one of the people that bought a cushion.
We stopped half way down the river after 7 hours for the night and this is where things got slightly stressful. We were charged by a bunch of kids who jumped on and took our bags, demanding money to get them back./ As you can imagine, this did not wash with me. It was then a break for it to find a bed for the night where many Laotian guest house owners lied about the facilities and tried to bump the price, along with being rude. All quite stressful and the place was a dump, a lot like a border town in Mexico. So bad i have forgotten the name of the town already. A complete disappointment. Still we soon calmed down with a beer and some Laotian curries.
This morning we started over again and this time a stressful start , they tried to put too many people on the boats. They should only hold 80 people and more than 100 were on board and they still tried to fit more people on so we had a mexican stand off and demanded another boat. People fell in the river, bags were thrown....quite the scene.
Eventually, we were on the move and it was much of the same as the day before but different people. Really, really amazing and i would do the trip 10 times over again. This time i sat with a couple of great girls from Brighton, Jenna and Stephanie and a bunch of easy on the eye lads from Argentina.
Now i am in Luang Prabang and after a delicious Lao streetside buffet and a glass of wine (WINE !!), Laos is starting to redeem itself. I look forward to seeing tomorrow why LP was recently named a World Heritage site.
That's after we check out the line dancing at the local disco..i kid you not!
The slow boat was amazing in terms of scenery, unmatched probably than anywhere else i have ever been in the world. Absolutely gorgeous and untouched by the western world. The first day we punted along for about 7 hours and i did not read one word of my book or listen to a single song on my ipod as i couldn't stop looking at the scenery. Fishermen, women washing, children swimming, rock formations, waterfalls... Occasionally my daydream was rudely interrupted by a loud speed boat loaded with the fools that took the fast boat. Wearing crashing helmets and racing along at dangerous speed it looked stupid and a complete waste of being in Laos, very few people do it and i see why. I was still with Tasha and Frankie the Spanish hairdresser (Peter the dutch cyclist went a different route) and on the boat met a variety of people from Argentina, Australia, Canada and Germany, all really pleasant and laid back. The benches were not the most comfortable and i admit i wish i was one of the people that bought a cushion.
We stopped half way down the river after 7 hours for the night and this is where things got slightly stressful. We were charged by a bunch of kids who jumped on and took our bags, demanding money to get them back./ As you can imagine, this did not wash with me. It was then a break for it to find a bed for the night where many Laotian guest house owners lied about the facilities and tried to bump the price, along with being rude. All quite stressful and the place was a dump, a lot like a border town in Mexico. So bad i have forgotten the name of the town already. A complete disappointment. Still we soon calmed down with a beer and some Laotian curries.
This morning we started over again and this time a stressful start , they tried to put too many people on the boats. They should only hold 80 people and more than 100 were on board and they still tried to fit more people on so we had a mexican stand off and demanded another boat. People fell in the river, bags were thrown....quite the scene.
Eventually, we were on the move and it was much of the same as the day before but different people. Really, really amazing and i would do the trip 10 times over again. This time i sat with a couple of great girls from Brighton, Jenna and Stephanie and a bunch of easy on the eye lads from Argentina.
Now i am in Luang Prabang and after a delicious Lao streetside buffet and a glass of wine (WINE !!), Laos is starting to redeem itself. I look forward to seeing tomorrow why LP was recently named a World Heritage site.
That's after we check out the line dancing at the local disco..i kid you not!
Sunday, March 02, 2008
Huay Xai, Laos
I made it to Laos! Quite exciting but the whole border crossing was a little too easy and quite the non event.
My day started badly by me falling on my face in the bus station at 7am. I tripped on the stair and landed front first on the tiles in a station packed with Thai's who just stared blankly at me as i flayed about on the floor before picking myself up. Hugely embarrasing. Huge.
An easy journey by air conditioned bus for 3 plus hours took me to Chiang Rai and i was going to hang around but there was a bus leaving for Chiang Keong 10 minutes after i arrived so i jumped on it. No air con and the bus had definitely seen a few miles but it had character and on both buses i was the only 'farang' (white person) which was nice. The second bus was actually very worse for wear but i was encouraged by the sight of a monk sitting in the first row.
The scenery here is spectacular and so i find that i am not sleeping much as i want to soak up everything so i just sit and watch Thailand pass by out of the window.
Once in Chiang Keong i met an Irish girl outside of a store who asked me where i was staying. What is it about me that attracts the naive and innocent ones? She hadn't a clue where she was going and approached me so i said she could tag along but informed her that i didn't have a clue either but i must be good at pretending as she thought i had an air of confidence about me and knew what i was doing. She also thought i was about 26 or 27 so what does she know! I kid, she's grand as she would say. Her name is Tasha and she's from Dublin, 2 months into a year long trip. She is travelling with friends who flew to Laos and she wanted to go the long way round. Good on her!
Immigration was a booth by the Mekong river, where i simply got a departure stamp and was told to go. nice. We then took a long boat across the river for about $1, it took 5 minutes and we were in Laos! Not officially, they had another booth on the other side which took more paperwork and a whole lot of ink was used in the stamping of the passports which was a ridiculous comedic procedure and then we were official.
We got a cheap room and spent a few hours walking around Huay Xai, finally getting some sun. What with the travel and having to dress so modestly for the temples and the villages i looked like i'd spent the week in my cupboard.
So now i'm in Laos and have picked up a roommate in the process...along with a crazy Spanish hairdresser and dutch cyclist and we are all booked on the slow boat to Luang Prabang tomorrow. Slow because it takes about 8 hours the first day, we stop over night and then another 8 hours the next day, getting there on Tuesday.
We all hung out and drank too many beers as we watched the sunset over Thailand just across the river. It's a good day to be me.
My day started badly by me falling on my face in the bus station at 7am. I tripped on the stair and landed front first on the tiles in a station packed with Thai's who just stared blankly at me as i flayed about on the floor before picking myself up. Hugely embarrasing. Huge.
An easy journey by air conditioned bus for 3 plus hours took me to Chiang Rai and i was going to hang around but there was a bus leaving for Chiang Keong 10 minutes after i arrived so i jumped on it. No air con and the bus had definitely seen a few miles but it had character and on both buses i was the only 'farang' (white person) which was nice. The second bus was actually very worse for wear but i was encouraged by the sight of a monk sitting in the first row.
The scenery here is spectacular and so i find that i am not sleeping much as i want to soak up everything so i just sit and watch Thailand pass by out of the window.
Once in Chiang Keong i met an Irish girl outside of a store who asked me where i was staying. What is it about me that attracts the naive and innocent ones? She hadn't a clue where she was going and approached me so i said she could tag along but informed her that i didn't have a clue either but i must be good at pretending as she thought i had an air of confidence about me and knew what i was doing. She also thought i was about 26 or 27 so what does she know! I kid, she's grand as she would say. Her name is Tasha and she's from Dublin, 2 months into a year long trip. She is travelling with friends who flew to Laos and she wanted to go the long way round. Good on her!
Immigration was a booth by the Mekong river, where i simply got a departure stamp and was told to go. nice. We then took a long boat across the river for about $1, it took 5 minutes and we were in Laos! Not officially, they had another booth on the other side which took more paperwork and a whole lot of ink was used in the stamping of the passports which was a ridiculous comedic procedure and then we were official.
We got a cheap room and spent a few hours walking around Huay Xai, finally getting some sun. What with the travel and having to dress so modestly for the temples and the villages i looked like i'd spent the week in my cupboard.
So now i'm in Laos and have picked up a roommate in the process...along with a crazy Spanish hairdresser and dutch cyclist and we are all booked on the slow boat to Luang Prabang tomorrow. Slow because it takes about 8 hours the first day, we stop over night and then another 8 hours the next day, getting there on Tuesday.
We all hung out and drank too many beers as we watched the sunset over Thailand just across the river. It's a good day to be me.
Saturday, March 01, 2008
Chiang Mai, Thailand
So i am back in Chiang Mai. Half a day of flying solo and things start to go a little pear shaped.
I was supposed to be on a bus to Chiang Rai leaving at 5pm and had flown from Mae Hon Song this afternoon to get to the bus on time but the bus was full and so was every bus leaving tonight.
No great shame as i am getting to hang out in Chiang Mai again. I got to see the amazing Lek on guitar but the downside is that it's election night again so no booze. I was absolutely busting for a G&T and heard on the grapevine that there was a possibility of getting one at the night bizarre so i headed back there and low and behold within 5 minutes i had one in hand.
I love travelling solo but the hazard as a woman is unwanted attention and my unwanted attention came in the form of an American wrestler without the muscles but with the head scarf.
There i was innocently sitting at the bar quietly reading and listening to The Eagles (from the bar not on my ipod!) when he came and sat next to me and tried to film me! from about 10 inches away. Asking politely and ignoring him didn't work as he didn't seem to understand (he was German i think)but i found that 'Fuck off!' did.
I spent this morning in Mae Hon Song (you'll notice my spelling has been bad anyway due to odd keyboards but village and town names are spelled differently everywhere so i have no clue on what is the correct version). MHS was very clean and appeared quite wealthy. A complete contrast to Kuhn Yuam and the nearby Karen villages. Stopped off at another Wat, Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu. Slightly different to others we have seen, they are two burmese style Chedis. As with many of the temples there are still parts that women are not allowed to enter. I just don't get this fear of women in religion, even something as 'gentle' as Buddhism, where does it come from and why is it still happening today...
Yesterday we got to go to another Karen village, specifically so that Vicky could look at it's school. Through the trust she has donated a significant sum of money towards the building of some dormitories at the school. The dorms will allow for children of neighbouring villages without schools to attend school as currently many are unable to due difficult roads and long distances.
The village itself was about 45 minutes up a mostly unbuilt road off the main road in the most stunning setting. It's nestled deep into those hills i mentioned before and the school is out of a story book, sparse but utterly delightful, i would skip to school if i went there.
Lucy and i wandered around the village and were the subject of much curiousity. Many villagers hid and looked at us through the windows or behind doors, children ran and giggled as we walked by and they called out Sawadekai (Thai for Hello) or Omouchipah (Karen for Hello both spelled completely incorrectly) We could see no one in front of us but when we looked around there was quite the crowd gathering in the street, it was quite sweet.
The ride back down the hills was quite the adventure. A complete thrill ride as we stood on the back of the flat bed truck as it zoomed down the hills at 80 plus kilometers an hour, turning corners like it was on rails. I know what a windscreen feels like now as so many flies and insects smaked against my face. I wanted to laugh several times as it was so exhilarating but there were many of those insects bouncing of my lips and didn't want to risk it.It felt like i was handgliding with a jet pack attached to me but the views were absolutely magnificent so it was worth it.
In the evening there was a bit of a party for the gap students and teachers as the students go on to work on the water project. Loads of yummy food but poor Lucy missed out on most of it due to projectile vomiting. Not sure if it was heat stroke or dehydration but whatever it was laid her out and after what we ate i didn't envy her having to see that twice.
So now i have a buzz on from my G&T's, a couple of shandys and a steamed grouper with garlic and chilli, i am heading back to my little guest house on the Ping river to the BBC world service.
Tomorrow i have a 7.15am bus to Chiang Rai and then straight on the Chiang Keong and Laos.
Talking of which i had visa pictures taken today and as usual i am pulling a strange face. It's either me or it's pictures taken at certain angle but again i look a little 'simple' and have a lazy eye, no wonder i am attracting guys with bandanas.
Currently Listening to: The Eagles - Lying Eyes
Temperature: A steamy 87 degrees.
I was supposed to be on a bus to Chiang Rai leaving at 5pm and had flown from Mae Hon Song this afternoon to get to the bus on time but the bus was full and so was every bus leaving tonight.
No great shame as i am getting to hang out in Chiang Mai again. I got to see the amazing Lek on guitar but the downside is that it's election night again so no booze. I was absolutely busting for a G&T and heard on the grapevine that there was a possibility of getting one at the night bizarre so i headed back there and low and behold within 5 minutes i had one in hand.
I love travelling solo but the hazard as a woman is unwanted attention and my unwanted attention came in the form of an American wrestler without the muscles but with the head scarf.
There i was innocently sitting at the bar quietly reading and listening to The Eagles (from the bar not on my ipod!) when he came and sat next to me and tried to film me! from about 10 inches away. Asking politely and ignoring him didn't work as he didn't seem to understand (he was German i think)but i found that 'Fuck off!' did.
I spent this morning in Mae Hon Song (you'll notice my spelling has been bad anyway due to odd keyboards but village and town names are spelled differently everywhere so i have no clue on what is the correct version). MHS was very clean and appeared quite wealthy. A complete contrast to Kuhn Yuam and the nearby Karen villages. Stopped off at another Wat, Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu. Slightly different to others we have seen, they are two burmese style Chedis. As with many of the temples there are still parts that women are not allowed to enter. I just don't get this fear of women in religion, even something as 'gentle' as Buddhism, where does it come from and why is it still happening today...
Yesterday we got to go to another Karen village, specifically so that Vicky could look at it's school. Through the trust she has donated a significant sum of money towards the building of some dormitories at the school. The dorms will allow for children of neighbouring villages without schools to attend school as currently many are unable to due difficult roads and long distances.
The village itself was about 45 minutes up a mostly unbuilt road off the main road in the most stunning setting. It's nestled deep into those hills i mentioned before and the school is out of a story book, sparse but utterly delightful, i would skip to school if i went there.
Lucy and i wandered around the village and were the subject of much curiousity. Many villagers hid and looked at us through the windows or behind doors, children ran and giggled as we walked by and they called out Sawadekai (Thai for Hello) or Omouchipah (Karen for Hello both spelled completely incorrectly) We could see no one in front of us but when we looked around there was quite the crowd gathering in the street, it was quite sweet.
The ride back down the hills was quite the adventure. A complete thrill ride as we stood on the back of the flat bed truck as it zoomed down the hills at 80 plus kilometers an hour, turning corners like it was on rails. I know what a windscreen feels like now as so many flies and insects smaked against my face. I wanted to laugh several times as it was so exhilarating but there were many of those insects bouncing of my lips and didn't want to risk it.It felt like i was handgliding with a jet pack attached to me but the views were absolutely magnificent so it was worth it.
In the evening there was a bit of a party for the gap students and teachers as the students go on to work on the water project. Loads of yummy food but poor Lucy missed out on most of it due to projectile vomiting. Not sure if it was heat stroke or dehydration but whatever it was laid her out and after what we ate i didn't envy her having to see that twice.
So now i have a buzz on from my G&T's, a couple of shandys and a steamed grouper with garlic and chilli, i am heading back to my little guest house on the Ping river to the BBC world service.
Tomorrow i have a 7.15am bus to Chiang Rai and then straight on the Chiang Keong and Laos.
Talking of which i had visa pictures taken today and as usual i am pulling a strange face. It's either me or it's pictures taken at certain angle but again i look a little 'simple' and have a lazy eye, no wonder i am attracting guys with bandanas.
Currently Listening to: The Eagles - Lying Eyes
Temperature: A steamy 87 degrees.
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