Friday, February 29, 2008

Kuhn Yuam, Eastern Province, Thailand

It's been a slightly surreal and grounding couple of days, as we left the well worn track for the much more less travelled one.
I am currently in a very small town North East of Chiang Mai, on the Mae Hon Son loop called Kuhn Yuam. This is where Lucy's mum is based while she works with the nearby Karen people. We drove here Thursday via the Inthanon National Park. Stopping off at waterfalls along the way because everyone loves a waterfall. The roads were extremely windy as we climbed through the hills, quite close to the countries peak Doi Inthanon at over 8,000 feet. The views were breathtaking, with lush, green hills that just seem to fold into each other, lined with the occasional village or rice field.
When we got here we dropped off our bags and headed straight over to a nearby Karen Hilltribe village of Ban Cam Suk to meet some of the children that Vicki has been working with and befriended over the last couple of years. I will leave you to look at the links i have given about the Karen people but Vicky has been working with a specific trust that supplies local schools with teachers, school buses, builds clean water projects and funds the childrens education in schools and universities.
The children we met were wonderful, healthy and happy with huge beaming smiles that completely lit up thier faces. We were extremely lucky to be invited to stay with one of the families overnight and it truly felt like a priviledge as they allowed us to stay in thier home and cooked for us. Last night they made us two types of rice and marrow with a spicy chilli dish..they love thier chilli here and i've definitely upped my tolerance factor. The huts are all wooden built on stilts with cows, chickens, pigs that live below and pens around the house. In our house they even had a monkey hanging out below. We spent the evening playing with the children and a couple of girls who are here with the trust volunteering for thier gap year. The family consisted of a mum and dad both of whom are in their 40's, a 12 year old girl, Dim and 15 month old little Pla who was the cutest kid you have ever seen. It was so interesting how we bonded playing games like Snakes & Ladders as with very little common language between us it was at times difficult to interact. Especially when it came to bedtime, as with such a small living space we were struggling to see how we could change into PJ's and prepare for bed and where we would all sleep. In the end we just slept in our clothes under bundles of blankets they loaded onto us.
I slept extremely well but woke at around 5am this morning to chorus of cockerals, women pounding rice, cows mooing, dogs growling and snoring coming from little Dim. They had cooked us breakfast and i struggle to eat cornflakes at 10am in the morning let alone rice with pumpkin and eggs stewed with tomatos at 6.30am. It was sad to say good bye and i can't imagine how some of these gap year students feel after living with a family in such close proximity for 6 months at a time and then having to leave.
The villages are sparce, littered with cow shit, hay and whatever else but their houses are extremely clean inside and they seem to have everything they need because their needs are very little. It's definitely grounding and spending just one night with them makes one reflect on what one has and very lucky we are.

Currently Reading: Neverwhere - Neil Gaiman
Currently Watching: Thai Soaps
Temperature: Hot!

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Chiang Mai, Thailand

I'll be leaving shortly on a 4 hour drive north to Mae Hon Son and then to a small town close to the Burma/Thailand border where Lucy's mother is living.

It will be sad to leave Chiang Mai as i really like it. It's the countries second captital and so much more chilled out and cleaner than Bangkok. Last night we roamed the night bizarres and ate whole fish with Kaffir leaves and chili's before heading to La Brasserie for a drink. La Brasserie was an excellent recommendation from Bernie who had told me all about the resident guitarist there. Unfortunately i didn't get to see Lek the guitarist, i think it was his night off but no worries as it was located right on the river and as i sipped a gin and tonic with a fantastic serene view, the house band played Coldplay and Red Hot Chilli Pepper covers. To be fair, it wasn't bad, actually they were pretty good if you like covers. They were tight and the singer had a nice voice and his english was good. They sounded better than half the bands you see down The Mercury Lounge on a Wednesday night anyway.

Chiang Mai, Thailand

A diverse couple of days and it's only going to get more so.

After our swanky evening at The Moon Cafe, Lucy and I took a Tuk Tuk to the Red light district of Patpong. We played Ping Pong Show bingo. In 10 minutes we were asked 17 times if we'd like to see a show, if ping pongs didn't interest us, never fear because they had a menu that included, but was not limited to blowing candles, cutting bananas and darts.
I am just glad Lucy isn't a man, she struggled to spot the lady boys from the real thing. My theory was if they look that good in a thong and sparkly high heels then they are more likely a 15 year old boy than any lady i know.

We flew up to Chiang Mai yesterday and was met by Lucy's mum Vicki who has been out here volunteering for the past few months. She's actually based a few hours outside of here but came in to pick us up. As soon as we got into Chiang Mai, we left it for some silk factories where Lucy and i indulged ourselves with decadent silk undies. I'm sure they will look great underneath my sweats. It was at the silk factory that Lucy hit on the joke of the day. Picking out ties for gifts she asked my opinion, i stated often and loudly how i was an expert on ties, i could pick a great tie, ties were boring...blah,blah blah not realising the lovely Thai assistants were looking at me with quizical (is that a word?) looks. This was nothing to a conversation we had yesterday outside a temple as we debated what act constituted being unfaithful. I said it would be a struggle but i could forgive a kiss but that 'i would be most unhappy if i found out my husband got a blow job. ..'
i said this as a group of teenage tourists walked by and erupted into laughter.

We then headed on to Lamphun about 20k outside of Chiang Mai to stay with a Thai family who are friends with Vicki. Extremely sweet. I particularly like the name of the son that we met, Dear. Named so because he was born on Valentines Day. Love it. Literally across the street from their house is an extremely picturesque temple called Wat Phra That Haripunchai. Another Wat off the list. There seems to be an abundance of monks in this area of Thailand, makes sense as i read that every Thai boy has to be a monk for at least some part of thier lives. It can be for a few days but is usually for a few months. It's quite funny seeing Buddhist monks going about thier business, it seems they go to the 7/11 and rent DVD's too.

All this is well and good but time for the main event. The ELEPHANTS, more specifically the ones that paint. Today we went to see them and i will be bitterly disappointed if i don't get a baby elephant that paints for my birthday this year.
It was great, the place is called the Mae Sae Elephant Training Camp and compared to other elephant establishments and zoos out there, this is pretty cool. The place is exceptionally clean and peaceful and the elephants genuinely seem to be having a good time. Why wouldn't they, they get to throw darts, play football, dance, play the harmonica...all of which i am crap at. The best is the painting though, the trainers seem to use tugs on the elephants ears to guide them as they paint flowers and abstract paintings. I will struggle to make rent this month after splashing out on a couple, the most expensive is the self portrait. An elephant has painted a picture of an elephant. It will be hanging in my apt within the next month for those that want to check it out. It's the best thing ever!

Monday, February 25, 2008

Moon Bar, Bangkok

This place deserves it's own spot in the blog. I think it is fair to say i have stepped into many a bar in my lifetime and it's quite difficult to impress me. This bar blew my cotton socks off.
59 floors above the grime and pollution of downtown Bangkok, The Moon Bar is a completely open air restaurant and cocktail bar with unobstructed 360 views of the city below. It is breathtaking. Quite possibly the most romantic bar i have ever been to, i spent the whole time waiting for Lucy to pull out an engagement ring. It was that smoking that i would of said yes, i'd of screamed it, i would of said yes to any proposal from just about anyone up there in fact.
To top it off i had the most amazing cocktail ' Romance on the Moon' which arrived in a glass bowl on a silver tray with dry ice steaming out from it, orchids, orange and a rose finished it off. Poor Lucy's 'Sex on the Moon' was a non event next to it. Much like real life i guess.

A complete contrast to the rest of Bangkok which we slowly floated back down to.

Bangkok, Thailand

No beer on the Koh San Road last night. It was election day here in Bangkok so no alcohol was allowed to be served from 6pm, which is probably a good idea. We did get the Pad Thai though which was very tasty for $60 cents. We passed on the deep fried crickets and The Ping Pong Show...i hope i don't have to explain what that is.

So with no beers on offer we were at a loss on how to spend the rest of the evening. How sad is that? So we headed home for an early night which was probably for the best as it was an early start this morning. A really early start for me as i woke up at 3am and spent an hour reading in the bathroom so as not to wake Lucy. The four hour nap earlier had screwed me and i was wide awake. Not Lucy though, i am so envious of her ability to sleep any time, any place. Lucy is the queen of naps.

Our 6am start was for the Damnoen Saduak floating market a couple of hours outside of Bangkok. We were well aware that it was going to be a bit of a tourist trap but it was actually quite nice and not as bad as i had imagined, probably because we had got there early and left before it got really busy. As the guide books say, the floating markets are few and far between now and they really only stil exist for the tourists . I enjoyed it though and still felt it was an experience i wouldn't of wanted to miss. Lucy and I sat and watched all the commotion from a river side chair and shared some spring rolls and fresh unrecognisable fruit, delicious but we have no idea what it was.

The day went downhill from there though, we were basically kidnapped and dragged around a bunch of tourists traps that included elephant rides, snakes, mongoose fighting and wood carvings. All of which Lucy and i opted out of.

So after another nap and another movie we are heading off for a much needed beer. This time we are heading downtown to Silom for some food and some roof top bar cocktails.

Tomorrow - Chiang Mai!

Movies Watched: Falling In Love
Currently Listening to: Lauryn Hill - The Miseducation of Lauryn Hill

Sunday, February 24, 2008

Bangkok, Thailand

Lucy arrived around 7am this morning which was exciting. I had struggled to sleep all night due to the jet lag, which is fair with Bangkok being 12 hours ahead of NY.
I'd treated myself to a hour long Thai Massage in the afternoon, there was something quite colonial about having some young thai boy climbing all over me, stretching me out but he did a great job and i can't remember feeling so bendy.
I spent the evening with a couple of movies from the hotel and sat down with a pepsi from the fridge which was actually more expensive than my delicious shrimp noodles i ordered from the street vendor outside. A steaming dish of shrimp Pad See Ewe for 60 cents.
I passed out at 9.30pm, woke refreshed at midnight and then was in and out of sleep for the next 7 hours until Lucy got in.

Today we took a public boat to Wat Pho - The Temple of the Reclining Buddha. and then to The Grand Palace. I wasn't appropriately dressed for the latter (wearing cropped pants and a vest) so had to borrow from the dressing room on site. Let's just say i looked very fetching in a rented blouse and skirt. I called the outfit 'Compliant Sam'

Then we napped. For four hours. So we are heading to Khao San Road and the red light district for a couple beers and some Pad Thai.

The question of the day is -

Lucy: I think those Buddhist monks in thier robes look quite sexy. Is that wrong?

Sam: Probably. But then we are not Buddhists so maybe not?

Movies watched: The Secret Lives Of Dentists, Japaneses Story

Saturday, February 23, 2008

Bangkok, Thailand

I made it into Bangkok around midnight last night. The 7 hour flight from Tokyo was a struggle but i caught a second wind when i jumped into a cab to the hotel. The cab driver was lovely and indulged me by letting me use my Thai phrase book. The poor man just laughed and nodded as i massacred his language.

The hotel is amazing. Owned and run by Thai's and away from backpacker central in Northern Bangkok. It's called Reflections , and doubles as an artist complex.
Each room has been decorated differently by a local 'artist' with different themes. Something went wrong with my booking so i am having to swap rooms every night. Fine by me as i get to stay in 3 different rooms. Last night 204, tonight 202 and then 210 with Lucy. Wait for the pictures on Flickr coming soon.

Lucy arrives tomorrow and i'm really looking forward to seeing her. I love to travel solo but there is nothing like sharing your experiences with someone. Reflections is definitely a place i want to share and can't wait for us to check it out together.


Now i am in an internet cafe after spending the morning at Chatuchak weekend market. It is huge, the largest in the world i think. A mass maze of narrow connecting alleys where you can buy everything from silk wraps to pork belly on a stick. It's around 84 degrees here but in the alleys it feels like 104 with all the food vendors and thousands of people. I was expecting it to be quite touristy but i have only seen a handful of westerners and no sex pests in sight. Well, nobody that looked like one anyway.

Loving to shop as i do it was difficult to walk past so many amazing things but the most difficult part were the animals for sale. I would not call myself an 'Animal Lover' but i like them a lot, enough to not even like pet shops in manhattan. So seeing baby bunny wabbits stacked in mini flourescent cages 10 high had me running for the exit. I know it was much worse further on but i couldn't bare to go see it.

I've been quite overwhelmed all morning by how i feel about Thailand and all the other parts of Asia that i have visited. I absolutely love the place. I love the customs, the people, the food, the culture and the adrenalin rush of being here, travelling on my own again. I was going to say that i am completely out of my comfort zone but i don't think i am. It feels like i've found a piece of me i lost somewhere along the way to being a grown up. This is just what i needed after a shitty few months.

Moves watched: Dan in Real Life
Listening to: The National - All Albums. 3 x over.

Friday, February 22, 2008

Narita Airport, Tokyo

To be honest i was not excited about the 14 hour flight to Tokyo. I know i do a lot of travelling but it has been 10 years since i've been on a plane for more than 8 hours in one sitting and i was dreading it. How could i possibly sit still for that long and who might i have sitting next to me?
In actual fact the flight was great. Nobody on board. A whole row to myself and Continental have finally gotten around to updating the inflight entertainment center.
I had bought me with some homeopathic sleeping pills but they went out the window as soon as i saw that i had over 300 movies to choose from, 250 albums and about hundred tv shows.

Thanks to the abundance of entertainment at my fingertips (remember i don't have tv) i am now wandering around Tokyo airport with bags under my eyes bigger than what i am carrying. I don't think i slept for 5 minutes.

The food en route to Japan was also great. I decided before i left that i won't be eating any red meat on this trip. I spent a long time in Asia over 10 years ago and ate my fair share of dog and other mystery meats. It was all about the experience back then but now it's all about my health and the fact that eating dog is not cool but actually really gross.
So, i chose the fish and white rice on the plane instead of the steak and got into the spirit by eating with the chop sticks they gave us while the Japanese around me ate with knives and forks. I guess they have nothing to prove.

Narita airport is very cool. Very feng shui. I'd quite like to move in actually. If only for the 'buttock cleansing' that the aiports toilets kindly give you. Unsolicited. Too much information perhaps.

Boarding for Bangkok in 30 minutes. Heading for another trip to the loo. Those 'buttock cleanses' really are that good.

Movies Watched: Taxi Driver, Chocolat, Pillow Talk, Finding Neverland
TV Watched: Law & Order SVU, 30 Days, Entourage
Miles Traveled: 6,732
Currently listening to: Astrud Gilberto - Astrud For Lovers

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Brooklyn, NY - The Night Before...

So it's 11.29pm. I am all packed and ready to go. This is remarkable as i have done very little in the way of planning and organisation for this trip. Just 3 minutes ago i confirmed my hotel in Bangkok which was about 5 minutes after i looked at my flight details and found that i arrive in Bangkok 6 hours earlier than i first thought.

A slight relief to get the hotel booked because i arrive around 1am Sat Morning and Lucy arrives on Sunday morning. After 20 plus hours of flying i wanted a decent bed to climb into, also because until 3 minutes ago we had no idea where we would be meeting up.

Our hotel in Bangkok is the only fixed part of this trip. The rest of the itinerary is loose but that's the way i roll and luckily for both us Lucy rolls the same way.

So talking of itinerary, this is the general plan.

21st Feb - Leave Brooklyn for Bangkok via 3 hours in Tokyo

22nd Feb/23rd Feb - Arrive Bangkok. Have a looksy around.

25th Feb - Leave Bangkok. Arrive Chiang Mai. Spend next few days several hours north of Chiang Mai living with the Karen people ( A Thai hill tribe on Thai/Burmese border, more details on the Karen people and how we are getting to stay with them nearer the time).

1 March - I'm on my own. Lucy and I part ways. She heads back to Bangkok and home on Sunday. I travel across Northern Thailand into Northern Laos.

1 March to 10th March - Traveling down through Laos and enter into Thailand at some point to catch flight from Bangkok.

10th March -11th March - 24 Hours in Tokyo!

11th March - Flight home.